One of Spain’s many surprises is the diversity of rice dishes found across the country. Many people outside Spain know only one of these dishes, paella, and think of it as the standard Spanish dish. It is anything but. Paella is just one of a dozen famous rice dishes, and many Spaniards prefer others. The ideal way to appreciate the country’s rice dishes is to start in the rice paddies of the east and work your way around the country. One of the most popular destinations for foodies in Spain is the rice paddies of Albufera, a small freshwater lagoon just south of Valencia. The soft green of the rice fields, the dark waters of the lagoon, and the vast blue of the sky give the area a beauty all its own. You can start your journey in the small town of El Palmar, located between the lagoon and the fields. The town’s restaurants offer a wide selection of rice dishes, more than a few of them incorporating the local eel. The best way to see the lagoon itself is from a boat, either on a guided tour or a rented boat. Most visitors to the area, however, come to see and explore the rice paddies themselves. The best way to do this is to take the road that runs from El Palmar to Sueca, the small city that has become the center of Spanish rice farming. The road passes through fields that stretch to the horizon in every direction. Sueca itself offers more than just rice. There’s a famous chocolate factory in town, and the city’s old quarter is a great place to walk it all off. The rice grown in and around Sueca is the core ingredient in one of Spain’s most famous dishes, paella valenciana. This dish is made with rabbit, chicken, snails, and a local bean called garrofó. It’s flavored with saffron and rosemary. The best place to try this dish is in Valencia itself, in one of the paella restaurants along the city’s beaches. While there are many to choose from, one of the best is La Pepica, a restaurant that has been serving paella and other rice dishes since 1898. There are many varieties of paella, and La Pepica serves more than a few of them. Another great rice dish from this part of Spain is arroz al horno, a dish that is made in the oven with rice, chickpeas, pork, and potatoes. This is one of Spain’s heartiest dishes and is best eaten on a cold day. Another variation is arroz con costra, a dish that is made with rice, chicken, and rabbit and then topped with eggs before being baked in the oven. Paella is often cooked in a large, flat pan over an open flame, a technique that gives it a unique, smoky flavor. The dish is traditionally served at lunchtime on Sundays or festival days, and it’s often cooked outdoors, in a paellero. This is a small, open-air kitchen that’s often found in the backyards of Valencian homes. The paellero is a place for family and friends to gather and enjoy a meal together. As you travel further south along the coast, you’ll find other rice dishes. In Alicante, the most famous is arroz a banda, a dish made with rice cooked in fish stock and served with a garlic mayonnaise called alioli. This dish is traditionally cooked in a caldero, a large iron pot. In Murcia, you can try arroz con conejo y caracoles, a rice dish made with rabbit and snails. Another popular rice dish from this region is arroz negro, a dish made with squid ink that gives the rice a black color. Moving further inland, you’ll find arroz con bogavante, a rice dish made with lobster. This is a dish that’s often served on special occasions, and it’s one of the most expensive rice dishes in Spain. Another popular dish in this region is arroz con magro y verduras, a rice dish made with pork and vegetables. In the city of Albacete, you can try arroz caldoso, a soupy rice dish that’s often made with chicken or rabbit. This dish is popular in the winter months when the weather is colder. One of the most interesting rice dishes in Spain is arroz con leche, a dessert made with rice, milk, sugar, and cinnamon. This dish is popular in the north of Spain, especially in Asturias, where it’s often served at the end of a meal. Another popular dessert in this region is arroz con pitu, a rice pudding made with chicken. The rice in this dish is cooked in chicken stock, giving it a savory flavor that’s balanced by the sweetness of the pudding. In the Basque Country, you’ll find arroz con bacalao, a rice dish made with salt cod. This dish is often served at Easter, when the Catholic Church forbids the eating of meat. Another popular dish in this region is arroz con chistorra, a rice dish made with a type of Basque sausage. In Galicia, you can try arroz con mariscos, a rice dish made with seafood. This dish is often served in a caldeirada, a type of seafood stew. Another popular dish in this region is arroz con pulpo, a rice dish made with octopus. This dish is often served at the Festa do Pulpo, an annual festival in the town of O Carballiño.
