Zaragoza

Zaragoza, capital of Aragon and Spain's fifth most populous city, is one of the major peninsular capitals that often lies off the mass tourism circuit. That is part of its appeal: a liveable city with first-rate monumental heritage and a gastronomy that reflects the mix of plain, mountain and orchard. The Ebro runs through it; on its banks stands the Basilica of the Pillar, one of the most important Marian shrines in the Catholic world.

The Basilica of the Pillar is the symbol of Zaragoza. According to tradition, the Virgin appeared to the Apostle James on a column —the Pillar— which is kept inside. The current building, Baroque and Neoclassical, houses frescoes by Goya and a dome overlooking the riverbank. La Seo (Cathedral of the Saviour), the Aljafería Palace —an 11th-century taifa palace and now home to the Cortes of Aragon— and the Roman remains of Caesaraugusta complete a historic ensemble of great value.

The Fiestas del Pilar, around 12 October, are the main celebration. The Flower Offering —thousands of Aragonese in regional dress laying flowers before the Virgin— is a unique spectacle of colour. Parades, Aragonese jota, fairs and festive atmosphere fill the city. The rest of the year Zaragoza offers museums (Goya, Pablo Serrano), walks along the Ebro, the Tubo quarter for tapas and an active cultural life with university and events.

Aragon gastronomy: ternasco (suckling lamb), borrajas, migas, longaniza, Calanda peach and Cariñena and Somontano wines. Bars in the Tubo and centre serve generous tapas. Zaragoza has a continental Mediterranean climate: cold winters and hot summers; spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons. The city is on the Madrid-Barcelona high-speed rail corridor and has an airport; it is an ideal base for exploring Aragon, the Pyrenees or the Ebro delta.

Zaragoza is a city to experience rather than for a whirlwind tour. Two or three days are enough to see the Pilar, the Aljafería, the Tubo and a museum. Those seeking less tourism and more authenticity will find a capital with character, good food and welcoming people.