Exploring the Medieval Heritage of Salas Near Oviedo
Nestled between the rivers Nonaya and Narcea, surrounded by green meadows and lush forests, lies the charming village of Salas, a medieval jewel just 30 kilometers from Oviedo. With a population of about 6,000, Salas remains a serene place that invites visitors to explore its rich history and its hidden treasures. The village is best known for its Collegiate Church of Santa María la Mayor, a stunning blend of Gothic and Renaissance architecture, and the Palace of the Valdés Salas, a fortress-like residence built in the 16th century. But beyond these famous landmarks, Salas also offers a glimpse into the daily life of medieval Spain, with its narrow streets, stone houses, and quaint squares. For those who love history, architecture, or simply a relaxing stroll through a picturesque village, Salas is a destination not to be missed.
The Collegiate Church of Santa María la Mayor
The Collegiate Church of Santa María la Mayor is the heart of Salas and a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. Built between the 14th and 15th centuries, the church is notable for its soaring vaulted ceilings, its intricate stone carvings, and its dramatic stained glass windows. As you step inside, you are immediately struck by the church’s grandeur and its sense of timeless beauty. One of the most famous features of the church is the Tomb of Archbishop Valdés, a stunning Renaissance funerary monument that dominates the central nave. The tomb is adorned with allegorical figures, including the Virtues and the Sacraments, as well as a life-sized statue of the archbishop himself, depicted in serene repose. The church also houses a small yet fascinating museum that contains religious artifacts, including a rare 16th-century processional cross and a collection of ancient liturgical vestments. As you explore the church and its museum, you can’t help but feel a connection to the generations of people who have worshipped here over the centuries.
The Palace of the Valdés Salas
Just a short walk from the church is the Palace of the Valdés Salas, a fortress-like residence that dates back to the 16th century. The palace was built by the powerful Valdés family, who were among the most influential noble families in Asturias. The palace is an impressive example of Renaissance architecture, with its imposing stone façade, its elegant arched windows, and its beautifully decorated interiors. As you approach the palace, the first thing you notice is the massive defensive tower, which rises up like a sentinel watching over the village. The tower is a reminder of the turbulent times when noble families had to defend their homes against rival clans. Inside the palace, you’ll find a series of grand rooms, including the Great Hall, which is adorned with portraits of the Valdés family, and the Chapel, which contains a stunning Baroque altar. The palace also has a lovely courtyard, where you can sit and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere while taking in the architectural details that make this building such a treasure.
Discovering the Hidden Corners of Salas
While the church and the palace are the main attractions, Salas is also full of hidden corners that are worth exploring. As you wander through the village’s narrow streets, you’ll come across charming stone houses, many of which have been lovingly restored to preserve their historical character. One of the most picturesque spots in Salas is the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, a quaint square surrounded by traditional Asturian houses with their distinctive wooden balconies. Here, you can sit at one of the outdoor cafés and enjoy a cup of coffee while watching the world go by. Another highlight is the Ermita de San Roque, a small chapel located on the outskirts of the village. The chapel is a popular pilgrimage site, especially during the Fiestas de San Roque, which take place every August. During the festival, the streets of Salas come alive with music, dancing, and traditional Asturian games, offering visitors a chance to experience the local culture and hospitality.
A Taste of Medieval Spain
No visit to Salas would be complete without sampling some of the local cuisine, which is full of traditional flavors and hearty dishes. Asturian food is known for its use of fresh, local ingredients, and Salas is no exception. One of the most famous dishes is fabada asturiana, a rich and satisfying bean stew made with chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage), and pancetta. Another local favorite is cachopo, a dish made with two large pieces of veal, filled with ham and cheese, and then breaded and fried. For something lighter, try pote asturiano, a traditional soup made with greens, potatoes, and beans. And don’t forget to try some of the local cheeses, such as Cabrales, a strong blue cheese, or Afuega’l Pitu, a soft cheese with a slightly spicy flavor. To wash it all down, enjoy a glass of sidra, the traditional Asturian cider, which is poured from a height to create a refreshing and slightly fizzy drink. As you savor these dishes, you’ll feel a sense of connection to the land and the people who have lived here for generations.
A Journey Through Time
Visiting Salas is like stepping into a time machine that transports you back to the medieval era. As you explore the village’s historical landmarks and picturesque streets, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for the rich history and cultural heritage that make this place so special. Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or simply someone who loves to discover new places, Salas is a destination that will capture your heart and leave you with unforgettable memories. As you say goodbye to Salas and make your way back to Oviedo, you’ll carry with you the stories and the spirit of this remarkable village, a true gem of medieval Spain.
