Discover Mogarraz: The Hidden Gem of Salamanca’s Countryside

Mogarraz, nestled in the heart of the Sierra de Francia, 85 kilometers from Salamanca, is one of the most beautiful villages in Spain, boasting a folk architecture that has earned it historical-artistic site status. Mogarraz is also known for its unique tradition of crafting jewelry with filigree and coral, as well as its traditional woolen capes, still worn by some villagers on special occasions. However, what truly sets this village apart is the series of portraits decorating the facade of its houses, a collection of artworks titled Retrata2-388 by local artist Florencio Maíllo. This initiative was born from a local custom of painting the deceased’s likeness on the facade of their home each year on All Saints’ Day. In 1967, a traveling photographer took ID-style photos of 388 of the village’s 700 residents, and Maíllo has since transformed these into the portraits visitors can admire today. In the village center, a stone column topped with a cross, known as a picota or jurisdictional roll, stands as a symbol of the Old Regime, when lords held the right to administer justice. Mogarraz, with its cobbled streets, has a distinctly medieval feel, with its oldest houses featuring stone basements and wooden upper floors. The village’s charm lies in its peaceful setting, surrounded by fruit trees, vineyards, and forests of chestnut, oak, and holm oak. In the heart of the village, a jurisdictional roll stands as a reminder of the harsh justice once dispensed here. The roll, a relic from before the New Plant Decrees of 1718, is a fascinating piece of history, though historians debate whether criminals were actually executed on it or simply displayed as a warning to others. The village’s Hermitage of Our Lady of the Snows, featuring a beautiful stone bell gable, is a must-see. Built between the 16th and 17th centuries, it faced demolition in 1974 but was saved by the collective effort of the entire village, who transported stone from the neighboring town of Sequeros to prevent its destruction. The hermitage, now with three naves, houses a stunning Baroque altarpiece presided over by the Virgen de las Nieves. Mogarraz also offers a range of local crafts, from jewelry making to embroidery, including the production of traditional black woolen capes, which are still worn by some villagers on special occasions. The village is also a haven for nature lovers, with numerous hiking trails leading through the surrounding countryside, offering breathtaking views of the valley and the nearby mountains. As a reward for a day of exploration, visitors can indulge in the local cuisine, with dishes like hornazo (a meat pie) and calderillo (a hearty stew), followed by a dessert of perrunillas (almond cookies) or rosquillas de Ledesma (fried doughnuts). For those with a taste for something stronger, the local liqueur, licor de bellota (acorn liqueur), is a perfect way to end the meal.